European Union implements a ban on the disposal of unsold clothing
The measure, originally approved in 2024, takes effect from this July.
On Sunday, the 19th of July, a European Union rule stating that large fashion companies are banned from disposing of unsold items, including clothing, footwear, and accessories, became official across the bloc.
The measure is part of the EU’s Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), a key component of the Commission’s approach to more environmentally sustainable and circular products, which aims to achieve its energy efficiency targets by 2030.
The rule, expected to affect larger fashion retailers, wholesalers, and manufacturers at this stage, addresses part of the issue that makes fashion one of the most polluting modern-day industries.
An article published on the European Commission’s website in February this year estimates that 4-9% of unsold textiles in Europe are destroyed before they are ever worn, with countless fashion items – damaged, returned, and from the unsold stock of previous collections – being discarded and incinerated.
The waste generates around 5.6 million tonnes of CO₂ emissions, which is almost equal to Sweden’s total net emissions in 2021 and represents a problem that is reflected globally. Approved by Brussels over two years ago, the regulation will also tackle medium-sized companies in the next few years.
What the regulation says…
For now, the new regulation focuses on large fashion companies, with more than €50 million in net annual turnover and an employee count of over 250 people. Big luxury brands such as Prada, Chanel, LVMH, and Kering are the most likely to be impacted.
Instead of destroying or discarding their products, those companies are now obliged to find viable solutions, either through discounts and sales, official outlets and alternative markets, second-hand platform partnerships, or via donations, which can include charities. The exception applies to damaged, unsafe or fake items, as well as pieces already rejected by charities, which can still be destroyed.
Along with the ban, the EU also requires those companies to publish annual reports on the discarded goods, and these must be kept on record for a minimum of five years.
What to expect now…
The European Union is hopeful that the new regulation will help reduce the environmental impact caused by garment destruction and discard, as well as encourage a more responsible and circular production process, from sourcing materials to repairs and sales.
From a consumer perspective, customers may take advantage of the measure by purchasing discounted and second-hand items. On the other hand, for various luxury labels which rely on product exclusivity and high demand, the new regulation can pose a logistics, production, inventory management, and operational challenge in the upcoming years.
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